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Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 11:33 am
by imported_ganna
Greg, I saw the solution for example 6 and I'm OK, so no need to post it here. My example5 I started with it in LAB, saved LAB again, but tit had a reddish tint which I tried to reduce in RGB. The demon eyes I treated with HSB. I'm not happy with the result, but tahis was my best effort. After I finished this I saw the solution, but I need to play around a lot more, the colours are just not right.
Regards
ganna

Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 11:57 am
by -default
Great job on the texture of the lighter and darker fur.  One big problem remains that you can see with the hue clock, and that's the overall green color.  The tree trunk might or might not be green, but the animal's fur should be somewhere in the range of red to yellow, not green.  Try going into Lab and removing the green with a neutral in the gray fur.  Don't worry too much about the demon eyes - as long as they are not fluorescent they will be more or less correct.

Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 2:07 pm
by imported_ganna
Mike, I added a tad of red and saturated a bit more, so less green fur.
I am unsure about: looking at a specific area with the hue clock and you get numeric values as well as the arm. How do you change colour to a specific value on the clock? For instance looking at another image and you want to get the specific area the same. Sorry, it may be a stupid question, but what is the correct way to go about, not fiddling and churning around like me, hoping to hit the jackpot :)
Thanks again for the tonnes I'm learning here.
Kind regards
ganna

Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 3:25 pm
by ggroess
Ganna,
There are a few good uses for the Hue clock and hundreds of bad...Kidding...

I use the hue clock to check trouble areas like dark fur ...It does pick up greens sometimes...You can also use it to adjust skin tones.  setting a tone requires a light touch and patience...you will be rewarded with better skin tones but you have to work at it a bit.

Your fastest solution for this image might be a neutral pin.  Find an area that you think you want to be grey and pin the neutral there...

Then...

You can also do what I call Neutral thresholding....Just as you can move the Highlight and Shadow around you can move the neutral around to get a feel for slight color shifts.  Sometimes I cannot get it right and I have to pick a new neutral altogether but it might be one of the fastest ways I have found to cure overall color casts. 

The problem with this technique is it relys on a neutral...what to do if there is no obvious grey??  I try the same with white and or black..It doesn't always work but it should get you back into the ballpark quickly.

Greg