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Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 2:31 pm
Again a very challenging task.
After many attempts, I removed the cyan cast and used shadow, highlight and neutral to get the image to normal. I then did another run and using the contrast pin tried to separate the greens. I did attempt it with Ctrl click but found it easier with contrast pinning.
I wanted to keep the red lanterns defined but when I moved the trees to a more vibrant green, the lanterns blew out.
Anyway, here is my attempt.
Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 4:26 pm
Since you did this in LAB the red side of the A channel needs to be pinned so that it does not move when you use the contrast pin. In my screen shot I started by Pinning the Red side with a right click and selecting
Pin curve > Lower Left.
After that I selected the contrast pin. I made sure that I set the Sample size to 10 or greater for this so I get a long enough color worm to work with. (shot2)
I have not adjusted the color cast yet..just used the contrast pin to make the greens move apart. The next step would be to adjust the B channel so that the greens have more yellow in them and the bridge gets better looking as well.
If you do this correction in RGB you have many more options open to you including a "By The Numbers" color correction to get the bridge right as well as being able to just effect the green channel with this correction.
Posted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 7:35 am
My sample size is 11. My RGB Shadow Target settings are 2,2,2 and Highlight target are 254.
Should I change that?
Posted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 12:05 pm
I'd try a test print or two at the different settings.
These settings really have more to do with output and limiting the extreme ends of the curve. It does help prevent blown out highlights and blocked up shadows.
Some people have gone below 250 and over 10 to limit the effect. It really comes down to your work style and what you find acceptable.