Week 6: Example 5 - Temple Bridge, Taroko Gorge

This is the forum for posting to the June 2010 CM 101 Class
leeharper_admin
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Postby leeharper_admin » Thu Jul 22, 2010 1:05 pm

Another attempt that looks better 24-hours later. I'm beginning to like that 24-hour breather!

I'm not sure whether I've got this absolutely right - I'd be interested to know if you have any advice - but it's better than it was in any case...

The whole correction was done in Lab - though it took me about 4 curves to get the colour in good shape (lots of mouse traps to get rid of ;)).

The techniques used were similar to the last image, so I won't reiterate them here.

Let me know what you think  :)
Lee.
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1_lab_castfixer-acv
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2_lab_green_btn-acv
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3_lab_greenboost-acv
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ggroess
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Postby ggroess » Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:16 pm

Lee,

After applying your ACV files I find myself wondering what the output goal was for this image?  If your goal was for print I would have to print the image and see what happens.  For the screen I think it looks flat. 

For the ACV I have attached you need to take the image from the beginning and load ACV's 1, 2, 3 and apply between steps.  Then load my ACV.  Your Step 4 undoes some of the things you set out to do earlier on mainly in the Greens.  I also moved the contrast around a bit.

I looked at the channels from your image and I wonder if the Red channel is taking to big of a hit in the first step of the correction? It seems like there are no blues left in the image...The blue channel looks pretty good but the red is weak...That would be a normal result of trying to kill the cyan cast.

This is one that can really fall prey to the mouse trap process...remember that doing something to the image that hurts you later might mean that the correction you are seeking needs to be done after other things.  For instance the color cast you have applied makes the greens even worse.  Maybe try removing the color cast in RGB first.the bridge is significantly lighter than the forest....This is one we could have a great discussion over...

Greg
Attachments
shot1-jpg-68
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2007-11-28_165923-jpg-lab_gg-acv
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mikemeister_admin
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Postby mikemeister_admin » Thu Jul 22, 2010 3:28 pm

Hi Greg,

Thanks so much for the advice. I did have trouble with this one, especially in the foliage.
remember that doing something to the image that hurts you later might mean that the correction you are seeking needs to be done after other things.  For instance the color cast you have applied makes the greens even worse.  Maybe try removing the color cast in RGB first.the bridge is significantly lighter than the forest...

It's interesting for me to hear that my curves are counteracting one another. I wonder if this is a beginners mistake, or whether this ought to be discussed during CM 201?

I applied your curves, but thought (on my monitor) that the foliage was too saturated, so I duplicated the layer, set one to luminosity (which I kept at 100% opacity), and set the other to color (which I reduced to 50%). On the color layer I masked out the bridge. In my version it's neutral, but in yours it's slightly warm. Am I in error in attempting to neutralise it - does that make it too cold? I interpreted the instruction to remove the Cyan cast as an instruction to neutralise the bridge, but your correction makes me wonder - after all, it is in full sunlight...
This is one we could have a great discussion over...

If you are amenable to another Skype cast sometime over the next few weeks I would love to go into this image in more depth with you ;)
Attachments
wk6_ex5_lh_v2-jpg
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ggroess
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Postby ggroess » Thu Jul 22, 2010 4:24 pm

I am open to another session of Screen Share...
I'll look at the calendar and see what we can do...

The bridge is very subjective...sorry, but I was not there to make the image so I'm open to various shades; so long as the overall effect is not harmful to the rest of the image...I warmed the entire image up to get the Greens to be more pointed to yellow than to green.  Part of it was working from your posted result and trying to make some changes...

Let me work on this image myself and post a version.  Then we can compare my take on it to yours...It would only be fair...I am feeling like I should not put my spin on this too much...trouble is I would like to get you back to a richer version of this image...

Greg

leeharper_admin
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Postby leeharper_admin » Thu Jul 22, 2010 7:13 pm

I am feeling like I should not put my spin on this too much...

No, please do - I would be very interested to see how you would tackle this from scratch :) Curve files would be fantastic too, if that's possible.

Lee.

ggroess
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Postby ggroess » Fri Jul 23, 2010 12:42 am

Ok...Here is a under 5 minute correction for this image.

Step 1 Drive the greens apart to add variation and saturation.  Use some manually placed control points to adjust both the A and B curves Make sure the greens are on the green side of yellow not the yellow side of green on the hue clock.  We will be accepting that the shadow colors may have some greener greens but they are acceptable for now. 

This is where you appear to hurt the image for a few minutes while you accomplish 1 goal...The greens.  Step 1 ACV file

Step 2 Manage the color cast.  The bridge actually becomes more green than cyan after step 1 and an RGB correction is all that you need to get the color cast out.  Step 2 ACV.

That about all I would do in CM...

Greg
Attachments
step1-color-boost-lab-acv
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step2-color-cast-rgb-acv
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2007-11-28_165923_gg-jpg
2007-11-28_165923_gg-jpg (296.9 KiB) Viewed 12680 times

leeharper_admin
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Postby leeharper_admin » Fri Jul 23, 2010 8:51 pm

Thanks Greg ;)

I'm not in Boot Camp right now, so I can't check out your curves at present. I like the look of the foliage though.

I just wanted to ask - you say that the hue clock on the greens should be closer to green than to yellow. Elsewhere on the course the advice is that the hue clock should be closer to yellow than to green. In one of the videos Mike says "the closer to yellow the better". Is your advice regarding the hue clock position specific to this image, or have I misinterpreted what has been said about this previously? I've always thought that greenery ought to be weighted towards green...

Cheers,
Lee.

mikemeister_admin
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Postby mikemeister_admin » Fri Jul 23, 2010 9:51 pm

Lee,three o'clock on the stand alone hue clock is a good starting point.Moving towards four  the atmosphere of a garden photo seems to thicken.GregM

ggroess
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Postby ggroess » Fri Jul 23, 2010 10:07 pm


Step 1 Drive the greens apart to add variation and saturation.  Use some manually placed control points to adjust both the A and B curves Make sure the greens are on the green side of yellow not the yellow side of green on the hue clock.  We will be accepting that the shadow colors may have some greener greens but they are acceptable for now. 



So a greenish yellow is better than a yellowish green....
Greg

leeharper_admin
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Postby leeharper_admin » Sun Jul 25, 2010 7:02 am

Understood. Thank you both for clarifying that - it certainly makes more sense than the interpretation I had arrived at :)

Cheers,
Lee.


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