Posted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 11:37 am
Upon re-evaluating this this morning, and being mindful of your advice (for exercise 2) to see shadow and highlight points, I threw away yesterday's correction and began afresh.
I don't know why - even seven weeks into this course - I still forget to set shadow and highlight values? I think that when the image looks in obvious need of correction I remember to do it, but when the initial shape of the image is in good shape I forget all about it ::)
Anyway, I began in Photoshop by applying the Shadow/Highlight command (using DM's defaults), and then took the file into CurveMeister. I set shadow and highlight points - and then remembered that in the hint video Mike had mentioned that the water was neutral, so I pinned that as well.
I went back to CM to drive the greens apart, using the contrast pinning technique. I still had lots of hue clocks open, so having rotated my points I tweaked them to ensure that the hue clocks were falling in appropriate places. I wanted to avoid damaging the colour of the rock, so I ran Stephen Marsh's 21 channel action, and used the 'Working Grayscale' channel (inverted) to partially protect the rocks.
In Photoshop I then applied the Shadow/Highlight command again - but this time only to the highlights (to make the foreground boulders look better).
I finished by applying some sharpening on a luminosity layer. My sharpening layer slightly darkened the whole image, so (in Photoshop) I slightly lightened the three-quartertone of this layer to improve the weight of the image.
If you can offer any additional polish - or if I've missed something obvious - please let me know :)
Cheers,
Lee.
I don't know why - even seven weeks into this course - I still forget to set shadow and highlight values? I think that when the image looks in obvious need of correction I remember to do it, but when the initial shape of the image is in good shape I forget all about it ::)
Anyway, I began in Photoshop by applying the Shadow/Highlight command (using DM's defaults), and then took the file into CurveMeister. I set shadow and highlight points - and then remembered that in the hint video Mike had mentioned that the water was neutral, so I pinned that as well.
I went back to CM to drive the greens apart, using the contrast pinning technique. I still had lots of hue clocks open, so having rotated my points I tweaked them to ensure that the hue clocks were falling in appropriate places. I wanted to avoid damaging the colour of the rock, so I ran Stephen Marsh's 21 channel action, and used the 'Working Grayscale' channel (inverted) to partially protect the rocks.
In Photoshop I then applied the Shadow/Highlight command again - but this time only to the highlights (to make the foreground boulders look better).
I finished by applying some sharpening on a luminosity layer. My sharpening layer slightly darkened the whole image, so (in Photoshop) I slightly lightened the three-quartertone of this layer to improve the weight of the image.
If you can offer any additional polish - or if I've missed something obvious - please let me know :)
Cheers,
Lee.