Steve week 2 ex3 Pumpkins

[sjordan93436]

When I did this earlier, I did not know what "rounder" meant.  I hope I did this better. 

[ggroess]

Steve,
Rounder in this image means being able to distinguish the shape of the pumpkins based on the saturation of the colors.  So as the light is hitting the curve of the pumpkin the color should slowly lose some of it's saturation as you get closer to the highlight.  The color correction is really tough in HSB so as you change the saturation you need to use the worms to help you find areas where the color (hue) needs a tweak.

Start with the brightness and add some contrast not a lot but enough to help you out...then adjust the saturation slightly until you see some shape change...it is really easy to make this image look flat or cut out...use the tools to help you find the adjustment points...Take a look at the ACV attached...
Greg

[sjordan93436]

Fresh start.

I started to ask the difference between HSL and HSB.  Then I looked in wikipedia.  It got deep fast.  LOL.

the L of Lab and the B of HSB are the same except inverted?

In the pumpkin jpeg, the stems are a specific but different hue.  If I wanted different colored stems, I would isolate that part of the curve and move the hue.  In real world, I could select/ mask something so that the item I wish to change hue would stand out (face then eyes).

Other use of HSB.  Often the faces are under-saturated or over-saturated.  I  could use a skin mask then blur the mask and change saturation?  I find that under exposed skin when corrected for brightness, has problems.  Lack of contrast and saturation.  Is this a way without messing the entire photo.  I had a group of photos.  The family wanted to stay in the shade, ouch. 

[ggroess]

I'm not sure about the inverted aspect but the B in HSB certainly is very close to the L channel in LAB.  If only Hue acted as well as the Color Channels of LAB. 

I use HSB with a Skin mask every once in a while...It can be very handy...It is also great for the white parts of the eyes...

Check out this thread...

http://www.curvemeister.com/forum/index.php/topic,2635.0.html

Or...

http://www.curvemeister.com/forum/index.php/topic,2513.msg10792.html#msg10792

Greg

[mikemeister_admin]

Steve, try lifting the  saturation line.Then mark the worm for the  increased magenta and flatten or increase the angle to correct.Done right you can get a hard waxy look to the pumpkins surface.It's useful for car fenders,orbs,globes,etc.GregM

[sjordan93436]

GregM, 

Thanks for the input.  I am a little dense today. 

----Steve, try lifting the  saturation line.
(no problem- but you do mean increase the saturation?  I notice that you have 0 on the left and the Saturation line is lifted up.  For some stupid reason, I use dark on the left.)

---

Then mark the worm for the  increased magenta and flatten or increase the angle to correct.
(Use contrast pin?  Almost all the pumpkins are orange, some approach red, but I cannot see much magenta.  I notice if I reduce the saturation I get more waxy look.)

----Done right you can get a hard waxy look to the pumpkins surface.It's useful for car fenders,orbs,globes,etc

[mikemeister_admin]

Went back and followed Mike's instructions,have to check some of my car pictures.Just made sure sat line crossed at 50/50(neutral?)
GregM

[sjordan93436]

Thanks GregM,

This is weird...  Some might think it strange that I re-took this class.  But, the recent re exposure to HSB and CMYK got me going again.  I have a couple of photos that are not great, but have weird exposures.  They are benchmarks.  Before class 1, I could not get them to anywhere near normal.  After class 1, much better, but a bit of struggle and just okay.  Now the correction is much easier and better thanks to HSB,cmyk and skin masks. (and GregG)

Now to finish the class,  finish projects, and understand all that the mighty zog posted....

[ggroess]

It just keeps getting better the more you use it...

Glad it is starting to be easy...
Greg